Right now, I’m in the north of England and heading for Hadrian’s Wall.
I’ve always wanted to see it, and to walk its length. This time, I hope to walk along at least one stretch and look at some of the excavation sites. I’m researching Roman and Viking history here in the north for some future children’s books, and also writing about several key pilgrimage sites for Sublime.
So I’m making my way toward the Wall from Oxford . I stopped in York , one of the most important Roman cities, base for both Septimus Severus and Caracalla – Constantine the Great was declared Emperor here in 306, a long way from Constantinople. York was founded by the famous Ninth Legion in AD 71 – readers of Rosemary Sutcliff will be pleased to hear that York Cathedral houses a rusted Eagle of the Ninth.
Today I’m in Durham, founded by the Normans and one of the great sacred sites of Britain. Pilgrims have come here for centuries to visit the shrine of St Cuthbert. I’ll do that tomorrow. But today I made my own pilgrimage, to the other end of the gob-smackingly beautiful Durham Cathedral, to the grave of the Venerable Bede, “Father of English History.”
I think he might have played a supernatural scribe trick on me, because I left my notebook in the quire stall after Evensong.
Very funny, Bede.